Diary of an Art kid: April 2012

Wednesday

Burnt, Agony and Raw

The start of last week we had to pick 3 words from min maps created from the five senses.

From our three words we had to think of activities that would help us create swatches to help express our words.

We created mood boards and developed a theme on each board.

When doing my boards i found i had a similar theme throughout them. however weird it was.

The Mood boards were temporary and not fully finished as they were gonna be changed again further into the project.

Burnt: smoking,melting

Agony: Bleeding, Crumbling, Biting

Raw: Curdling, Buthering,

Friday

Knotting..

Knotting goes hand in hand with draping.

When fabric is knotted it creates a somewhat draped effect.

Designers use knotting to enhance different body parts or simply use it as an embellishment.

Knotting was a big trend across the runways in spring 2010

Thakoon

Carolina Herrera

Valentino

Layering..

Layering is a technique done by placing a number of garments or fabric on top of each other.

When thinking of layering one collection stood out the most.

Missoni's Fall 2009 was a multi-layered,knit phenomenon.

Designer Angela Missoni took layering to a whole new level in this collection.

Boning..

Boning is a solid support under garments to create a stiff appearance and for better structure.

Boning can be either visible or non visible.

Versus Fall 2011

Boning is also Found in corsets and Jean Paul Gaultier is well known for his famous corsetry work in his spring 2011 couture collection.

Darts..

Darts are folds sewn into the fabric of a garment to provide a three dimensional shape.

Many designers use darts to help bring their garments to life on the runway. With a wide selection of dart types to choose from designers have many options to help create this 3d effect.

Darts are probably the most commonly used type of sewing technique.

Standard Darts:

Thakoon Pre-Fall 2012

Arms Eye Dart

Jil Sander Fall 2010

Centre Darts:

Jil Sander

H Darts:

Peter Pilotto Spring 2010

Irregular Darts

Jil Sander Fall 2012

Princess Seam

Luella Spring 10

Wednesday

Tucking is a series of stitched folds in a garment.

Tucks create some what of a structure and create definition in garments.
Design duo Jeffery Costello and Robert Tagliapietra showcase graceful and subtle tucks and twists of the fabric in their fall 2012 collection.

Costello Tagliapietra fall 2012

Costello Tagliapietra Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Gore..

A gore is a triangle or tapering piece of material sewn into garments, normally at the ends.

It creates a cone like flounced effect.

Diane Von Furstenberg Spring 2005

Godet..

A godet is a triangular piece of material inserted into a garment to make it flared.

The most common use for a godet is in skirt to make them flounced and flared.

In McQueen's Edwardian inspired spring collection Godets were used in stiff flounced skirts.

Alexander McQueen Spring 2005.

Gusset..

Definition: This is a piece of material that is sewn into the garment to strengthen or enlarge a part of it.

Many designers used a gusset to enhance collars, sleeves etc. but some designers incorporate them into the garments.

In Gaultier's Fall collection he adds a gold gusset along the side of a jersey evening gown.

(the dress also has a ruched shoulder)

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2010

Gathering..

When Madeleine Vionnet introduced the bias cut dress to fashion she also created a long list of new techniques .One of these was gathering. Famous for her Grecian Style dresses Vionnet pushed the trend and has been a constant season staple ever since.

Continuing with the legacy Madeleine left behind, new heads of design at the label, Barbara and Lucia Croce, have striven to stay true to the labels roots.

With their debut for the label in the Pre- Fall 2012 collection the sisters re-invented Vionnet.