Trend Report: Autumn/Winter 2012


When Agyness Deyn appeared across magazines with her androgynous style in 2007
It wasn’t a trend one would think would catch. Several seasons later and borrowing from
the boys is even more popular. Clean cut lines and polished tailoring poured down the runways and trickled on down through the markets. With this trend it’s not so much about the
Individual pieces, but more about the entire look. Androgynous pieces mixed with more feminine ones were clearly seen as well as full suited looks.

I found that as the trend passed on down to the high street it because more ‘boy’ than ‘man’.
The garments became more loose and the silhouette baggy and oversized. The colours became brighter rather than just black and white. Overall as long as one garment in the look is tailored
and well-structured it will exemplify androgyny.


This season, leather has taken on a whole new dimension. Unlike previous seasons where leather was manufactured into complete garments, it crept into the form
of collars, sleeves and panels this Autumn/ Winter. Being popular on every runway, leather continued its way down through the markets and was widely used in both middle and mass markets.
Leather emulates a cool, gothic vibe and is extremely popular with bloggers and street style enthusiasts.

In my research I found that these leather sections were mostly used in combination with wool for outer garments, creating a new and fresh trend. The mixes of textures are exciting compared to the more obvious all leather jackets that appear season after season. The only colour I seen being used was black, which in turn is staying true to the Winter feel.


Each season a certain colour emerges and simmers across most of the shows.
This season it was ox blood. A somewhat ‘’new’’ shade to most designers
colour palette was mostly accompanied by custom shades of burgundy.
The colour proportion varied from small details to full outfits and accessories.

Through my research I noticed how the shade got brighter as it fell through the markets
almost losing its personality and becoming practically red as it reached mass markets.
Cottons and leather were quite popular fabrics with this trend probably due to the deepness
of leather and cotton being easily dyed.

The colour was popular in many other trends but seemed to stay in the more feminine side especially in print.


Comfort is one of the most popular trends across runways for autumn and winter
and this season it was oversized everything. From coats to jumpers, pants and dresses
the trend has quickly grown. Compared to last winter designers didn’t hold back.
The bigger, the better. The silhouette is cocooning yet was always paired
with a slim garment to create balance.
The fabric I came across the most was wool. Being the most comfortable
and shapely.

As the trend fell through the markets it became less extravagant and more flattering
on the figure yet still held the cocoon shape in most garments.
Coats were the most popular in this trend but variations of the classic shift dress
were also quite popular. This trend also blends well with androgyny as the loose
fittings creates a  boyish frame.

Print: Menswear:

In menswear, most autumn winter collections often revolve around crisp suits, heritage jackets and simple knitwear. This season however a fresh palette of prints were flashed across runways all season. Every type of print imaginable was used. From graphic to floral, print was used in pants, shirts and knitwear.
Through my research print became increasingly less daring on the high street. Duller shades
were used yet they were still innovative and exciting. Simple fabrics like cotton were widely
used so comfort was definitely not confiscated. My favourite were graphic prints seen on the runway
but were dumbed down through the markets. It was definitely a mixed colour palette but was mostly paired with simple shade of black and grey to get the full effect.

Tailoring: Children's wear 

This season in children’s wear I found that tailored garments for girls was an obvious trend.
Garments were fitted, mostly jackets. Comfortable fabrics were used such as cotton, wool blends and polyester. Colours were not prominent and stayed on the more neutral side with splashes of
christmas shades of reds and green.

As the trend developed in the markets the tailoring became looser and became more focused on comfort and movability yet still holding a certain tailored look. The items became more functional
but still  appeared stylish and on trend



I chose to work with leatherette and latex as it went well with my theme and
gave me the shape and feel i was hoping for.

After getting my fabrics it was time to actually make my piece.
I was finding it quite hard to actually translate my initial design onto the manequin, so after a nice chat
with Mairead I forgot about my design and began to just go with whatever i felt was write on the mannequin.

After time I developed Ideas that I hadn't initially thought of and my design started to completely change.

I also re did my illustration to fit my design better.

After a week of construction I finally made my neck piece and here it is
Modelled by Derv.


Design Process

Trying to find my own way of designing will take some time so I decided to take the same direction as before in the shape up project. I pulled shapes from the analytical drawings and played with them on the mannequin and croquis to create designs.

I picked my favourite design and then started to resize and alter it slightly.

Final Illustration: 
Unfinished board and illustration


When we had our sculptures made we were asked to do analytical drawings
in as many forms as possible in a range of mediums.
Firstly I took photographs of my objects and decided to draw from them.

Next I did some analytical drawings with as many mediums as possible.